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Better steak in one step

The world of steak is not known for innovation. Apart from the kinds grown in labs or fabricated on a 3D printer, as well as the occasional upgraded wagyu, "tried and true" is the motto most beef enthusiasts embrace. But star chef Andrew Carmellini has another technique that will more than reward your wait.

Everybody knows about dry aging at this point—dedicated home refrigerators are even increasingly available. Carmellini's an advocate for "re-aging" prime beef, a process he started for the T-bones at his modern American restaurant the Dutch in SoHo in New York.

The best selling Gorgonzola-cured strip steak at Carmellini's swanky new Financial District steakhouse, Carne Mare.

Source: Carne Mare/Gabbie Reade

The concept is simple: Take a prime steak cut, one that has already been aged, and let it stand in the cold air of your refrigerator for a few days, preferably upright. The steaks you buy at the store were almost certainly aged as bigger cuts.

"When you get the air circulating around the smaller cuts, it brings more moisture that was left in the meat, and caramelizes the sugars in there" says Carmellini. He adds: "It's especially good for a steak for two—tomahawks, cote de boeuf, big rib eyes, and porterhouse—those bigger eating steaks." 

The chef and beef re-aging expert at the grill.

Source: Andrew Carmellini

Carmellini advises home cooks to then top it with a simple Gorgonzola butter before serving. The result is dynamite—the sweet, sharp cheese butter melts right into the steak, enriching it while also carrying the punch of black pepper and wine-infused shallots.

Although experts will debate how effective dry aging in your refrigerator can be, Bloomberg's Food Editor Kate Krader found her re-aged rib-eye to be more tender, with a better caramelized crust, than a rib-eye from the same store that a friend grilled a few weeks ago.

If you can't age your steak in Gorgonzola—a secret process Carmellini does at Carne Mare—adding the funky cheese to butter that melts all over the beef is a good substitute.

Photographer: Kate Krader/Bloomberg

Now's the time to make that steak, with one last big grilling moment arriving this Labor Day weekend in the U.S.

Plus: tomatoes: "My favorite thing to eat with steak is tomatoes, and this is peak, peak, peak tomatoes," says Carmellini. "That beef, and tomato, with the gorgonzola butter is the summer's best flavor bomb."

For the full recipe, adapted from Andrew Carmellini and Carne Mare steakhouse, click here: Re-Aged Steak with Gorgonzola Butter

Rib-eye ready to be "re-aged."

Photographer: Kate Krader/Bloomberg

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Now That's Rich

Want to increase the value of your painting by 500%? Destroy it. 

That's just what happened in 2018, when a spray-painted artwork of a girl holding a balloon by Banksy began to self-destruct while it was on the auction block at Sotheby's in London.

Just after selling for about £1 million ($1.4 million), an alarm went off and the work slowly began to fall through a shredder hidden inside the frame. After it was about halfway through, the shredder stopped—or jammed.

"Love Is in the Bin" (2018) by British artist Banksy.

Source: Sotheby's

Sotheby's continues to insist it wasn't in on the "prank," even as it has announced that the work—still half-shredded—will return to auction on Oct. 14 with an estimate of £4 million to £6 million.

"Honestly, there was no involvement on our side," says Emma Baker, a contemporary art specialist at Sotheby's in London. "It's just become an iconic image now that's so ubiquitous in culture. You see it everywhere."

If the sale achieves its high estimate, the value of the painting will have nearly sextupled in almost three years.

And while other works by Banksy have sold for more—a record of $23 million was set in March—the painting, which was initially titled Girl with Balloon (2006) and which the artist renamed Love is in the Bin (2018) after it was shredded, carries the highest pre-sale estimate ever placed on his or her pieces.

Banksy "Game Changer" (2020) was sold at Christie's in March.

Source: Christie's

"If you look at Banksy's market since the shredding incident, there's been a massive change in the value of work sold at auction," says Baker. The 18 most-expensive works by Banksy to hammer have all occurred since the shredding incident. Just one of those 18 sold in 2019, according to Artnet's price database; the rest sold in 2020 or 2021.

"The market for Banksy's work has undergone such a dramatic change," says Baker. "It will be a real test."

After the 2018 auction, Sotheby's staged an impromptu exhibition. "About 5,000 people came through our doors to see it," Baker says. "It was quite incredible."

Photographer: Jack Taylor/Getty Images

Baker says that immediately after the sale, technicians from Pest Control, the name of Banksy's authentication body, disabled the shredder. "It no longer functions," she says. "The mechanics are still inside but it's been completely deactivated, so it won't happen again."

 

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A Matter of Perspective

Bloomberg's Car Critic Hannah Elliott on the latest ultraluxury auto

If you are in the market for a Ferrari—I mean the kind of Ferrari that makes your hands sweat and your pulse quicken and your mind race long after you've parked for the night—do not buy the 2022 Ferrari Portofino M.

The Portofino is named after a fishing village in northern Italy. It succeeds the company's previous V8 grand tourer, the California T. Source: Ferrari

Photographer: Hannah Elliott/Bloomberg

The new $226,000 grand touring convertible lacks the seriously sensuous curves and chiseled supermodel cheekbones that Ferrari has perfected over decades of making the most beautiful and collectable cars in the world. I adored the Ferrari Roma, for instance. 

Here, aside from the signature manettino switch and thumb-activated indicators, the Portofino M's interior lacks a distinctive "Ferrari-ness" in the way signature cabins in vehicles from Bentley and Lamborghini have that whisper or scream, respectively, of the brand that birthed them. With plastic-feeling knobs and air vents, a torture-chamber of a back seat, and a trunk that will fit three six-packs at best, this could be mistaken for the interior of a car far less expensive and with a substantially lesser pedigree.

The M stands for modificata, or "modified," and this update does indeed come with some vaguely pleasant modifications beyond the revamped styling: 20 more horsepower; an eight-speed gearbox instead of seven; and a "race" mode, the first on a Ferrari GT convertible.

Photographer: Hannah Elliott/Bloomberg

Which is not to say that the Portofino M is a bad car—it's just not a great Ferrari. Its driving style is comfortable and quick, and although it doesn't meet par against other grand tourers, it may be more usable than most Ferrari models. But the Portofino M will never be a car that comes close to defining the marque.

Here's why.

The Portofino M is designed to be driven every day, converting from a berlinetta-style coupé to an open-top convertible in 14 seconds. It has a respectable zero to 62 mph speed of 3.4 seconds and a top speed of 199 mph.

Photographer: Hannah Elliott/Bloomberg

 

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