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Buy new, be happy

Over the past year, as many luxury sectors struggled under the weight of the pandemic, vintage watches took off. Sotheby's reported in December that its global auction sales of timepieces had reached $97.5 million with more than 140 online sales totaling $47.4 million—almost eight times the number of sales and five times the value achieved in 2019.

Should you take the plunge? With enough time and energy, sure you can win a coveted piece of history at a relatively affordable price that—if sought out new—would be in reach for only the most connected or affluent.

We'd like to argue for buying new.

On the left, vintage watches worth a pretty penny. On the right, new watches that may be worth a lot more someday, but are a lot less likely to break down. 

Source (clockwise from top-left): Omega; Christie's; Zenith; Bulgari; Frederique Constant; Henry Leutwyler/Contour by Getty Images

Beyond the wonder and glory of a totally fresh timepiece, there's the ease of mind offered by manufacturer warranties, as well as the greater ease of servicing. With older watches, a wonky gasket and errant water splash could be catastrophic. "With limited spare parts available, that could mean the end of the watch and thereby, your investment," says Ruediger Albers.

Albers has watched some of the most coveted watches in the world fly from his tables as president of Wempe USA, which sells the likes of Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Tudor, Cartier, and TAG Heuer. "Today, many of the brands we carry have vintage-inspired designs but with the highest level of reliability, often increased power reserve, scratch-resistant materials—all thanks to modern technology," he argues.

Buying a vintage-inspired watch can give you the best of both worlds.

The Zenith El Primero Revival A386 is essentially a reissue of the first watch introduced with Zenith's legendary El Primero movement back in 1969 but with more powerful and reliable automatic technology.

Source: Zenith

"Owning a vintage watch is like owning a piece of history—not of the brand and the model itself but also of the owners of that specific piece that have come before you," says Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith. And sometimes that personal history comes with baggage. 

Consider instead making your own history with today's technological leap forwards: superhigh-frequency "monolithic" silicon oscillators, 98.6% recycled materials, wafer-thin construction. Be among the first to strap that on your wrist and that's valuable provenance right there. 

The MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome.

Source: MB&F 

Beyond the big, established brands—keep scrolling for some ideas—consider such independent, boutique watchmakers as MB&F, Laurent Ferrier, and Greubel Forsey. Their limited runs of watches feature wildly creative approaches to timekeeping, with beautiful machinery showcased on jaw-dropping dials. 

"Vintage pieces are sought-after because they were the most creative or cutting-edge pieces of their era," says Jared Silver, president of California-based watch and jewelry house Stephen Silver. "I would urge that customer to use the same yardstick when considering new watches." 

Still, if you decide to go vintage, you can't go wrong with Rolex.

Source: Hodinkee

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    Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014

    Source: Patek Philippe; Background: Getty Images

    Most Likely to Succeed: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014
    When it canceled one of its most coveted models ever, the Ref. 5711 blue-dial Nautilus, Patek promised a new version. It delivered: The 5711/1A-014 has a green dial, a trend solidly entrenched as the color of choice in 2021. There are also Nautiluses with diamonds and a rose gold chronograph. $34,893

    Panerai Submersible ELab-ID

    Source: Panerai; Background: Getty Images

    Destined to Save Earth: Panerai Submersible ELab-ID
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    Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Platinum

    Source: Bulgari; Background: Getty Images

    Least Likely to Clog the Suez Canal: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Platinum
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    Chopard Haute Joaillerie

    Source: Chopard; Background: Getty Images

    Most Glamorous: Chopard Haute Joaillerie
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    Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite

    Source: Rolex

    Most Likely to Be Abducted by Aliens: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite
    This 18k white gold watch is the same size and has the same movement, same ceramic bezel, and same Oysterflex bracelet as the regular white gold Rolex Daytona—with one major difference: It has a dial made from an out-of-this-world slice of meteorite. $34,050

    Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

    Source: Hublot; Background: Getty Images

    Most Transparent: Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire
    Having mastered the all-sapphire case—a Lego-like construction of some 37 components—Hublot adds an integrated sapphire-link bracelet. The tourbillon bridge, dial plate, and other bridges that hold together the watch's moving parts are also made of sapphire to provide a clear view. $422,000

    Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Reverso

    Source: Jaeger-LeCoultre; Background: Getty Images

    Best Multitasker: Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Reverso
    With four working dials and 11 complications, this takes six months to assemble because it has a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, moon phase in both hemispheres, tourbillon, leap year, Draconic lunar cycle, Anomalistic lunar cycle, and jumping hour and minutes. It does everything but open your beer. Limited to 10 pieces. €1.5 million

    Montblanc 1858 Split Seconds Chronograph

    Source: Montblanc; Background: Getty Images

    Most Adventurous: Montblanc 1858 Split Seconds Chronograph
    Unique case materials are the theme for this model line, which debuted in 2019 with a bronze case, followed by a titanium version last year. The 18k lime gold case is alloyed with silver and iron, and the matching green numerals are made entirely of Super-LumiNova. The other highlight is the colimaçon (snail-shaped) tachymeter scale, positioned on the center dial instead of the periphery. Limited to 18 pieces. $50,000

     

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